For the next few weeks, to cross Pakistan and China, we joined forces with Ben and Sophee (and their Land Rover, Colonel Mustard) over at Best Life In The World. Some of the photos in the next few posts have been kindly provided by them.
A late morning start took us on the short ride to what has been described as the most complex border in the world – between India and Pakistan. There is only one border on the entire 3,000 kilometre frontier that is open for foreigners, and approaching by day, without the crowds attending the border closing ceremony surrounding us, the atmosphere was far more tense. We passed through a security checkpoint just to reach the immigration / customs building, which was very reminiscent of a large regional airport, except for the emptiness: we were the only people in the large halls not wearing a uniform and/or carrying a large rifle. Immigration and customs formalities were slow but uneventful, but our tension level was steadily ratcheted up by a number of people’s comments to “be careful”, and wishing us “good luck” in ominous tones. With passports and carnets stamped, we were given a gate pass and proceeded back to the road where only 12 hours prior, cheering crowds had egged on slightly ridiculous soldiers posing and posturing. For the last few hundred metres approaching the gates, there were soldiers every 50 metres who would stop us, check our gate pass, passports and vehicles, even when they had seen us be cleared by the previous one.
Crossing the very visible line between the two gates brought us into country number 11, Pakistan. Passing another few checkpoints (with much more cursory checks of our documents), we pulled in to another mock airport terminal and started the same processing again. Somewhat simpler and easier this time around, although the English-speaking official who guided the head honcho through did ask to change some money for us, at a very poor rate – not an obvious nor expensive bribe, but necessary to avoid hassles.
Finally free of officialdom, we were released onto the roads for the short ride to Lahore. The immediate impressions of the country were more positive – the traffic obeyed some semblance of rules, and lots of people were smiling and waving from car windows, or riding alongside and trying to hold a conversation – much friendlier than the average ride in India. Once in Lahore, we met up with the local chapter president of the MAP, the Motorcyclists Association of Pakistan. They’re a very large, very active group who are keen to engage with overland travellers, and they welcomed us with open arms: providing dinner and a free place to sleep, and guiding us on a whistle-stop tour of the Badshahi Mosque and Lahore Fort the next morning.
Outside the mosque, dozens of vendors sell everything from freshly crushed sugar cane juice, roasted corn and other snacks, to balloons and toys.
Meanwhile, local children play cricket with whatever they can find.
Inside the complex, it’s similar Mughal architecture as in Agra and Delhi, although the mosque is larger than both. The details, from marble inlay to painted murals, makes it pleasing to the eye from both afar and close up.
As ever, people watching is a fascinating game.
With time running short, we just explored the outside of the fort before hitting the road.
On the road, we were stopped on the edge of the city by a couple of policemen, but they didn’t want to see any licences or passports, just to have a photo taken with us.
Further up the road, we stopped half way through to meet another local chapter of the MAP, and were greeted on arrival by a local news team! Between that and all the selfies, it’s enough to make you feel like a celebrity.
Arriving in Islamabad, we were taken in by another member of the MAP, the amazing Mr Sana, who hosted us for a few days. We visited the Faisal Mosque, the largest in Asia and the fourth largest in the world – said to be able to hold 75,000 worshippers. It’s a striking, modern structure from the outside.
Our generous host let us borrow traditional clothes for the visit.
Inside, it’s a beautiful space dominated by an enormous chandelier.
Later that evening we went up into the hills overlooking the city to watch the sun set, and had a delicious dinner of lamb.
With permissions and security advice sorted for the road north, we got ready for the second amazing mountain highway – the Karakorum Highway.
