Only a short entry this time, before tackling the enormity of Angkor Wat. Having crossed the border into Cambodia, we soon rolled into the town of Anlong Veng, known as the last stronghold of the Khmer Rouge. With time on our side, we decided to drop our bags at a hotel in town and push east about 100km to the temple of Preah Vihear, a World Heritage site and a hotly contested part of the border between Thailand and Cambodia. According to the agreement, the border is the watershed of the mountains, which would put it on the Thai side, however the Cambodians cited a French colonial-era map where the border suddenly detours to include the temple. The two sides have exchanged small arms and artillery fire a few times, even as recently as 2011, but for us fortunately it was calm. It did however mean registering our passport details before starting the winding road up the mountainside, and plenty of soldiers standing around. Just outside the car park you can see the bunkers set up.
Then there’s the first building of the complex, with an enormous Cambodian flag towering over it, for the Thai troops on the next hill to look at.
Built in the 10th and 11th Century by the Angkor empire, it was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. Initially there’s not much to look up, as you climb the avenue past small outbuildings and shrines towards the main temple.
It’s the mountaintop location that really sets it apart though, with spectacular views out over the Thai and Cambodian plains on either side.
The temple is mostly in much worse condition than the better parts of Angkor Wat, but is still an impressive structure.
Once at the inner sanctum, you’re at the top of the mountain, and by exiting out the back there’s a 500m high cliff with panoramic views.
Coming back down, you can see a small section of the extremely steep and winding road up the mountain.
That afternoon we pushed south through dusty, dry plains to Siem Riep, the modern town adjoining the ancient city and temple complex of Angkor Wat – which is big enough to need a whole post just to itself!
